Showing posts with label Italian. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italian. Show all posts

Saturday, March 14, 2015

Quasi L'estate



About a year and a half ago, I went to Italy with my grandparents. Lake Garda – Gardasee –, at the edge of the Dolomites, is about a four hour drive south-east of their house in Bavaria, where I was visiting, and Monika suggested it would make a nice excursion. Y’know, just pop down to Italy for the weekend, like you do. Not a suggestion I’m apt to turn down. So we did, and it was indeed a lovely weekend. I discovered I’m terrible at windsurfing – Garda’s apparently a mecca for it, with reliable winds off the mountains, but I spent more time in the lake righting my board than upright on it, and kudos to my instructor for his patience with that. I got caught on the summit of Monte Baldo in a thunderhail storm, and made it to shelter soaked through, muddy, and barefoot – slippery wet sandals are slippery – just as the deluge let up. (Did I mention this was August?) And on our last day there, Monika decided we should drive out to Valpolicella to find a vineyard and taste/buy some wines. After a lot of winding down dirt roads through rows of vines, we found a guy who said he’d let us into his winery, just let him drive home and get the key to open the place up. So we had our own private tasting, except he poured us nearly full glasses instead of tastes, and the wine was delicious, and Monika bought a case. Driving back to Torbole, where we were staying, it got to be around dinner time, so we stopped at a hotel on the mountainside to eat. I ordered a pasta dish with roasted tomatoes, sausage, and sage. It was phenomenal.

Skip ahead to January, in the depths of a Philly winter. I have in my fridge a jar of roasted tomatoes preserved in olive oil that my mother made last summer, when the garden was popping out tomatoes faster than they could possibly be eaten, and a box of really good pasta in the pantry. Time to recreate the Valpolicella dish. It’s not quite the same as August in the Dolomites, but damned if it doesn’t brighten up a grey East Coast afternoon.


Valpolicella Roasted Tomato-Sausage Pasta
2 links Italian pork sausage
Roasted tomatoes, roughly chopped**
Fresh sage, chopped
Garlic, minced
Olive oil
Salt & pepper
Grated Romano cheese
Good-quality short pasta, like cavatelli or orecchietti

1) Heat a bit of olive oil in a pan. Crumble in the insides of the sausage, and brown.

2) Meanwhile, set some pasta water to boil. Cook the pasta to al dente while sauteeing other things.

3) Add the chopped tomatoes and garlic. Sautee until soft & fragrant. Add the sage, and cook a minute more. Put in a good dose of cheese, then salt & pepper to taste.

4) Add the cooked pasta and a splash of its water to the pan and toss everything to combine. Serve with more grated cheese, olive oil for drizzling, and Italian wine.

Stuff in a pan, before it becomes stuff on pasta.
**Roasted Tomatoes, or Summer in a Jar
Basically just follow Smitten Kitchen’s recipe:

In August, when there’s more tomatoes than you know what to do with, slice a pile of plum, cherry, or normal (not gigantic heirloom) tomatoes in half. Set them on a baking sheet and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a bit of oregano or marjoram. Add a few whole smashed garlic cloves. Drizzle the whole thing with olive oil. Bake at ~225 for about three hours, until things get all caramelizedy around the edges. Store in a jar in the fridge, with olive oil high enough to cover everything.

If you didn’t plan ahead, or used up all of your tomatoes already, or whatever, you can use store-bought jars of tomatoes in oil  or sun-dried tomatoes soaked a for a bit in hot water to soften.

Saturday, September 27, 2014

Artichokes + Garlic + Pasta = Love

So it's been what, 5 months since I last posted here? My bad. In that stretch I've finished, defended, and submitted a dissertation, moved to Philly, and started teaching linguistics to precocious undergrads at my alma mater. It's been busy as hell, and as part of my dissertation recovery program I've been studiously avoiding writing anything longer than the answer key to the latest homework. But it's a Saturday and I'm kinda caught up on classes and this pasta is ridiculously good, so let me hereby declare this latest blogging sabbatical over. (Attn. any of my students who might be reading this: That was a performative. And yes, it will be on the quiz.)

Back before the madness that was this summer, on the last night of our super-secret trip to Italy in March, N. and I got dinner at a little restaurant in Bologna that we found on TripAdvisor. It was far too slick for its own good, and I was skeptical, but we were there and hungry, so we ordered a spaghetti al diavolo and a fettuccine al carciofi to split. The spicy spaghetti was quite good. We fought over the fettuccine.


Since getting back I've made it myself twice, and I can tell you this: it can either be the biggest pain in the ass pasta you've ever made, or it can be easy as hell and taste as good. I'm adapting my instructions here from Marcella Hazan, and while I have all the love and respect in the world for Marcella, I will say this about her version of the recipe: it's insane. And not in the fun, look at this crazy elaborate birthday cake that's a lot of work but comes out awesome kind of way (cough, cough). More in the totally unnecessary, will have you cursing her and your knives and artichokes and pasta til you say screw it and just order pizza kind of way. You can, if you want, buy fresh whole artichokes, trim, clean,  chop, and par-cook them, and proceed from there, as Marcella suggests. Or you can get a nice can or frozen bag of artichoke quarters or hearts, and save yourself the time and headache. I suspect you know which route I advocate.

A note on canned or jarred artichokes, however: make sure you get the ones packed in salt water, not vinegar. You'll probably have better luck with this in cans rather than jars. Rinse them well before chopping so they're not obscenely salty. Better still are frozen ones, which obviate the need for rinsing and (I think) taste a mite fresher. At Whole Foods I had the choice between quarters or hearts - hearts will be more tender; quarters will have a bit more chew. Dealer's choice here. I've tried both, both iterations were hits.

So without further ado:

Crazy easy, crazy good, post-dissertation pasta with artichokes
2 cans/1bag artichoke pieces
garlic
lemon juice
parsley
grated Romano cheese
S&P
olive oil
1lb pasta

1) Rinse the artichokes well if they're canned. Chop into pretty small pieces. Toss into a pan with some olive oil, saute for about 10 minutes over medium heat.

2) Mince/crush garlic to taste (3 cloves for my garlic-loving self), add to the pan, saute a few minutes more.

3) Add a good bit of lemon juice, a lot of parsley, and some cheese. Stir, then add salt & pepper to taste (careful of the salt if using caned chokes). Cook about a minute, then turn off the heat.


4) Cook the pasta.

5) Add a splash of the pasta water to the artichoke mixture, then toss in the pasta. Serve with more cheese, parsley, and a drizzle of fresh olive oil. I served it at a dinner party alongside a tomato/cucumber salad from my mother's garden, good bread, a peach/plum/rosemary galette, and some truly outstanding muffaletta meatballs that the inimitable A.P. may soon share the recipe for if we're lucky. Buon appetito. 


Sunday, June 23, 2013

Making Nice

Ok, I realize I may have freaked some of you out a little with that last post. Apologies. (That said, can't promise I won't do it again.) But you can come back now, it's safe, no furry head-on critters this time around. This recipe is so normal I got it from the Times. And you know what? It's really good.

See look, no ingredients with claws or ears.
 The first time I had socca (for the uninitiated: a savory chickpea flour pancake from south-eastern France/north-western Italy) was at a restaurant called Nizza on 9th Ave in New York. They serve food from Nice, which is what you would get if you mixed equal parts French and Italian, added a bit of Mediterranean sunshine, a pile of herbs, and then drank a bottle of red wine before cooking it up. In other words, wonderful. I could absolutely live on pistous and pissaladiers and good tapanade on fresh bread, and basically did on my trip to Nice a few years ago (at least when the seagulls weren't stealing the food right out of my hand). And the, gelato, oh the gelato. Of course I got a warm socca to eat at the open air market overlooking the beach, even if it was still way to cold to actually swim, being March and all.


The batter, ready for pouring.
 
 I hadn't thought about socca in a while, til a few weeks ago Mark Bittman did a column in the Times about all the wonderful non-hummusy things that can be done with chickpeas, and included this recipe. Don't get me wrong, lord knows I love hummus, but there's a whole chickpea world out there beyond garlicky spreads on pita. The original called for onion and rosemary for flavoring; I went in a different direction with sage ('cause that's how they make it at Nizza) and Italian sausage (because I had it in the fridge). Think of the batter as a blank canvas to play with as you will. It would be lovely with a handful of mixed herbs (sage, tarragon, and parsley?) and garlic; or onions and olives; a little bacon or prosciutto; some crumbled cheese. Beyond their basic sage/onion/pecorino version, at Nizza they use the socca as a gluten-free crust option for their pizzas, including a margherita; one with tomato, artichoke, goat cheese, and olives; and another with mushrooms, onions, and chevre. A nice ratatouille would be lovely on top too, with some oregano sprinkled over. You get the point - make it perfectly vegan or totally indulgent, whatever your mood. Just do try to have a light hand with the toppings so as not to overwhelm the pancake.

Sauteing the toppings.

 The only thing called for here that's slightly out of the ordinary is chickpea flour. I found a bag of Bob's Red Mill at the supermarket for a few bucks (look in the natural or gluten-free section if it's not in with the regular flour). Indian groceries would also have it, possibly under the name 'gram flour' or 'besan'. Worst case, there's always Amazon.

Socca
(adapted from Mark Bittman)

1 cup chickpea flour
1 tsp salt
1 tsp pepper
olive oil
1 onion sliced
1 handful sage, chopped
1 link Italian sausage
Romano cheese

1) Mix the chickpea flour, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Slowly whisk in 1 cup lukewarm water, making sure to get out all the lumps. Whisk in 2 tbsp olive oil. Cover and let sit on the counter between 30 minutes and 12 hours.


Pouring in the batter

2) Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 450. Add a little olive oil to a cast iron skillet. Crumble the sausage into the pan and saute with the onions until the sausage is browned and the onions are translucent, maybe getting a little browned themselves. Add the sage and stir a minute more. (If you're using other toppings, cook them now.)

3) Pour the batter over the toppings. Stir quickly once or twive to make sure everything's evenly distributed, and sprinkle a handful of romano over the top. Stick in the oven for 10-15 minutes, until the pancake is set.

Ready to bake.

4) Brush a little more olive oil over the top of the socca and set it a few inches under the broiler. Broil it just until it gets brown in spots. Serve cut into slices with a light salad and some good summer wine.


Done.

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

"Pizza is always 'was awesome'"

Or so says my dear friend B., and in this case he's right. I'm in cleaning out the pantry mode, seeing as I'm about to leave the country for six months, and pizza dough does wonders for emptying the flour jar. Two of the three incarnations were smashing successes; the third, a cheeseburger stromboli, wasn't half bad but probably not worth repeating. The base in all cases was this recipe from the NY Times, which makes two or three normal-thickness crusts. The recipe says to let it rise an hour or two; if you're foresighted enough let it go in the fridge overnight. Or if not, y'know, don't. Save these for a day when you don't mind having a 500-degree oven going. I've gotta say they're pretty damn awesome.


Sausage Pizza 
Half a batch of dough
One Italian sausage (hot Italian, if you're me)
Half a can of diced tomatoes (the good kind, no sugar or salt or other crap added)
Fennel seeds
Good pecorino romano cheese (Locatelli's best)
Sea salt, pepper, olive oil
 
Bring the dough up to room temperature. Preheat the oven as high as it goes, around 500-550 degrees if you can, with a pizza stone in it if you've got. Roll out the dough as thin as possible. Cover with tomatoes, fennel seeds, the innards of the sausage, cheese, salt and cracked pepper to taste. Next time maybe I'll add some fresh oregano too. Bake it til the crust it golden brown, maybe 20-25 minutes. About 10 minutes in, brush the exposed crust with olive oil. Let it cool a bit before you take a bite; I burned the crap out of the roof of my mouth on this one. Which is a good sign with pizza, I think. The leftovers were fantastic cold the next day for lunch.

Bacon/Onion/Olive Pizza, aka the Umami Bomb
Sort of  a cross between a pissaladiere and a deep-dish pizza. And for the love of god, don't add any extra salt.

The other half batch of dough
The other half can (unsalted!) tomatoes
Half an onion
8 or 10 chopped black olives (good herby ones, not crap from a can)
Chopped fresh sage
4 slices bacon, chopped
Fresh pepper
More romano

Let the dough come to room temperature. Meanwhile, chop the onion and saute it in a cast iron skillet. When it gets soft, set it aside but leave the pan oiled. Give the bacon a minute or two on the heat to crisp the edges but don't cook it through. Set aside.


Preheat the oven to 550. Sprinkle some polenta grains/grits in the skillet to stop the dough sticking (optional, the oil itself will do fine). Roll the dough out to just larger than the skillet and set it in, making sure there's a raised edge. Cover with the tomatoes first, then the other stuff, bacon on top. Bake about 25 minutes, til the crust is golden and the bacon is cooked. I pit the bacon on the bottom and ended up putting it under the broiler to make sure things were cooked through and it got a bit charred, not that that's entirely a bad thing for pizza crust.

Monday, March 5, 2012

Sausage & Fennel Casserole

Does it count as a casserole if there's no cream of mushroom soup dumped over the top? I dunno. Sausage & Fennel Braise, perhaps? Maybe I should just call this dish 'baked Italian deliciousness', since that's at least accurate (as long as you like fennel, which I really, really do). Add this to the 'make early and often' category.

In other news, I'm going to start adding photos to my posts, since apparently that's what all the cool kids are doing, plus my new camera has a 'gourmet' setting (whatever the hell that means, other than +$20 on the price point), with a little fork and knife icon. We'll see how this goes.

Now excuse me while I go reheat some baked Italian deliciousness for breakfast.



Sausage & Fennel Whatever
A few links of Italian sausage
1 bulb of fennel, with fronds
1 package frozen artichoke hearts
a few springs of parsley and oregano
1 cup chicken broth
a squirt or two of lemon juice
grated Romano cheese
olive oil
S&P to taste

Drizzle a little olive oil over the bottom of a baking dish.

Roughly chop the fennel. Put it in the baking dish.

Roughly chop the herbs. Sprinkle over the fennel.

Roughly chop the artichokes. Layer over the fennel and herbs.

If your sausages are frozen, cut them into inch-long chunks and distribute on top. Otherwise, try bigger pieces, or just score them down the middle so the juices drip down over the veggies while they cook.

Mix the broth and lemon juice. Pour over the whole mess.

Some breadcrumbs scattered on top might be good here, especially if you're running with the casserole idea.

Bake uncovered at around 375 til the sausage is browned and cooked through. Maybe 40 minutes?

Salt & pepper & Romano to taste. Serve with some good bread.

Sunday, July 19, 2009

Stuffing myself in NYC

My aunt & uncle just spent the weekend visiting here in NYC, and while they're not foodies/hounds/pick your label of choice, they do enjoy taking poor little unemployed me out to dinner at places I might not otherwise make it to. So here's an account of our Big Weekend of Eating in New York:

-Thursday lunch: DB Bistro Moderne. This was actually the day before they arrived, but close enough. In honor of restaurant week and prix fixe menus at places I could otherwise never afford, my boyfriend and I went for lunch at DB Bistro Moderne. Apps were great; I got the Alsatian flammenku"che (listed as "tarte flambee" on the online version of the menu) with bacon & onions, and he got the sweet corn soup with shrimp. Boulud knows his produce (cf also our desserts), and the corn soup had a great clean pure corn flavor. As for my tarte, bacon, cheese, & onion happens to be one of my favorite flavor combinations, so I was happy. For the main course we both got the couscous, which came with a piece of lamb, a chicken thigh, and merguez sausage, along with some diced veggies & chickpeas. Good but not outstanding; if I were to do it again I'd order the risotto instead. Dessert brought it back up to a higher level - I got the peach & nectarine crisp, which had the most incredibly intense peach flavor. I wish all peaches tasted like that. The BF's chocolate hazelnut cake was delicious and rich without being overwhelming, and had a wonderfully silky texture. We both ordered orange spritzers ($5) to drink, which were nice and refreshing but nothing special. Verdict: I'd go back for sure.

-Friday dinner: More restaurant week reservations at Mia Dona. They're offering basically the same prixe fix menu they offer at lunch all year, extended for restaurant week to dinner as well. I started with the Mia meatballs, which were fantastic (the big piece of cured pork - sauteed prosciutto? pancetta? guanciale? - in the sauce with them certainly didn't hurt). Main course was the rigatoni alla Norma. In all a successful dish, but the smoked mozzarella in it seemed excessive - it already had smokiness from the eggplant and salty/cheesy richness from the grated ricotta salata, so the mozz was a little redundant. But aside from a few chunks of cheese I happily cleaned my plate. My uncle enjoyed his cod quite a bit, but since I didn't taste it I can't report in detail. To get some veggies in there we ordered a side of sauteed haricots verts for the table - buttery, garlickey deliciousness, topped with dill & fried breadcrumbs. Desserts were also quite good; my vanilla panna cotta was strangely jiggly (maybe a little heavy on the gelatin?) but delicious, and my aunt's tiramisu was the first thing on the able to go. I should also mention the bread basket here, which includes some fantastic foccaccia alongside the more traditional bread slices, and a head of roasted garlic. Again, worth another visit.

-Saturday lunch: Co. I've been here several times before and loved it, and this visit didn't disappoint. We skipped the apps entirely and just ordered 3 pizzas: a margherita, a ham & cheese, and a popeye. I'd never had a margherita here before, and I thought it was really fanastic. Perhaps my new favorite pizza at Co. Ham & cheese was a repeat for me, and with that much prosciutto draped across the top, how can you go wrong? The caraway seeds are a nice touch too. I wasn't as crazy about the popeye; some bites had great flavor but some were slightly bland. That was also the one pizza out of the three that was charred enough to taste burnt to me. Verdict: So happy I live on the same block as this place.

-Saturday dinner: Szechuan Gourmet. I love this place. Apps were steamed vegetable dumplings (good if not terribly exciting) and dan dan noodles (quite possibly my favorite thing to eat in all of New York, even if they went a little light on the szechuan peppercorns this time). My aunt, who doesn't like spicy foods, ordered the chicken & broccoli, and my uncle got General Tso's chicken. Both were sweet & sticky but better than what you get at a lot of American Chinese places. After smelling it at a neighboring table during my last visit, I had to order the crispy lamb fillets with chili cumin. The lamb was slightly greasier than I would have liked, but deliciously cuminy, with just a little kick of spice and a great crunchy/tender texture. As were were walking down the block to the subway afterwards our waitress chased us down outside to give me back my sunglasses, which had fallen out of my bag at the table. Verdict: Bruni was right about them.

-Sunday Brunch: JoeDoe. Final meal of the visit. We came by at about 11:15 (they open at 11 on sundays) and were seated immediately, but by the time we left around noon they were full up, so come early for good seats. We chose JoeDoe for brunch based on the recent writeup in Time Out New York's brunch issue and my hankering for chilaquiles, which I fell in love with in Mexico this winter and hadn't had since. We weren't disappointed. First off, the biscuits with honey butter they brought to the table were just so good. Biscuits were big and moist and the honey butter was a creamy salty sweet pot of addictive deliciousness. I gotta find me a recipe for that. My aunt got the challah french toast with fresh fruit, which was (I kid you not) about 2 inches thick and delicious. My chilaquiles were nothing like those I had in Zihuatanejo, but utterly delicious nonetheless. Instead of crunchy tortilla chips topped with sauce, melted cheese, and bits of meat & veggies, this was a puffy tortilla, topped with a mound of scrambled duck eggs, crumbled chorizo, beans, guacamole, crema, and sauce, more like an unrolled breakfast burrito. My uncle finished every last bite of his eggs benedict, but I didn't get to taste. I liked the ambiance, definitely trendy but in a Brooklyn sort of way, very low-key. Verdict: Can't wait for more relatives to visit so I can finagle another meal here.

Sunday dinner through the foreseeable future: I'm about ready to swear off food for good. So full. But totally worth it.

Saturday, February 21, 2009

Leftover Soup

Next up in Easy Recipes I Like:

Pappa al Pomodoro

At its simplest, this is an easy, cheap, delicious soup and a good way to use that stale bread that you'd otherwise throw out. If you wanna get fancy, it's a catchall for all your leftover bits and pieces. The basic recipe comes from my semester abroad in Italy; the variations are whatever I ate the night before.

-Stale Italian bread, sliced thin
-olive oil
-butter
-onion
-garlic
-chopped herbs (marjoram, oregano, parsley, basil, whatever)
-chicken broth
-canned tomatoes
-salt & pepper to taste
-pinch o' cayenne (optional. but then isn't everything?)
-grated parmeggiano or romano cheese.

1) Chop the onion fine and saute it in oil and butter til it's translucent. Add the garlic and saute til it smells good.

2) Rip the bread into small pieces and add it to the pot. Swirl it around until it's soaked up lots of oil and garlic.

3) If you've got crushed or diced tomatoes, pour them straight into the pot. If they're whole, chop them up first. Add a cup or two of chicken broth, the herbs, and cayenne.

4) Let it cook, stirring occasionally, until everything's nice and mushy. Add the cheese and S&P to taste. To smooth it out, put in in the blender or a food processor, put it through a potato ricer, use an immersion blender, or try a potato masher. Or just eat it lumpy; that's good too.

Variations:
After blending, add:
-cooked pasta (for extra carbs)
-cooked rice (ditto)
-cooked ground beef/lamb/turkey/pork/whatever
-cooked sausage or little meatballs
-leftover meat, chopped up
-the juices from said leftover meat
-spinach
-white beans
-other veggies
-and/or whatever else you need to get out of the fridge