Showing posts with label string beans. Show all posts
Showing posts with label string beans. Show all posts

Monday, March 18, 2013

Some Good Southern Cookin'

Okay so none of these things are actually Southern food. But I cooked them while in the South, so close enough. Shuddup.

I'm currently in North Carolina visiting my dear friends J. & R. and their two dogs and two cats. So far we've gone out for barbeque and Mexican and pizza and big breakfast skillet hashes, and while it's all been utterly delicious dear lord is there a vegetable in the house? Well yes, as it turns out, since J and I stopped at a farmers market in Raleigh on the way home from the airport. So last night for dinner we skipped the leftover pulled pork and I cooked us up what basically amounted to a big pile of tasty tasty veggies: cauliflower/squash soup, sauteed green beans with tomato, and roasted spiced sweet potato wedges.

They're in the middle of a move, so cooking dinner went something like this: Dig through boxes for a cutting board and soup pot. Get out the veggies, oil a roasting dish. Realize the only thing we've got to chop up two huge sweet potatoes and a butternut squash is a little steak knife. Send R back to the old house to get the real knives. Get a movie up on Netflix til R gets back. Chop the potatoes, get them in the oven, peel and chop the squash and cauliflower, get them roasting too. Go to chop onions and garlic, realize we have no onions and garlic. Send R out to get them while he's picking up his cheese steak (not a vegetable kind of guy).  Watch another 20 minutes of said movie til R gets back. Get everything sauteed, simmered, roasted, and blended. Start to finish: something like 2 hours. But I swear, if you actually have your stuff on hand and not hidden in boxes across two houses all this takes an hour, tops, or 40 minutes for just the soup.

Winter root soup is really having a moment right now - see this recent post from the Times, and My New Roots' fantastic Reverse Universe Soup. My favorite version just uses plain cauliflower, which is not a root but is delicious. The basic recipe is this: take any of the sort of vegetable you might roast (cauliflower, winter squash, parsnips, celeriac, etc), boil them in stock until they're tender, season, and whiz up in the blender until smooth. Cauliflower cooked this way ends up tasting like you dumped in a quart of heavy cream, when really there's nothing dairy at all in there, just a good dollop of olive oil at the bottom (unless you put in a cheese rind, which I strongly recommend you do). It's also a nice blank slate for flavors - thyme and rosemary would go well, as would cajun spices, or some curry powder, or whatever. Leave everything but salt & pepper out of the pot and add to your individual bowl instead, so later when you're eating the leftovers for a week - a head of cauliflower makes a lot of soup - you can change it up and not get bored. Other veggies, like celeriac, are a little more specific in what spices will go - definitely French/Italian, probably Cajun, but I'd be a little hesitant about going the Indian route in that particular case.

The sweet potato wedges are a recipe out of Gourmet, which I love. Again the spice blend is up to you, but this one's particularly good. And the green beans are as simple as it gets. Together it's an indulgent-tasting detox dinner, or each dish on its own makes a good side with whatever else you're making. If you're doing all this at once, get the sweet potatoes in the oven first, then do start the soup, and cook the beans while the soup's simmering.


Random Root Soup
Various roastable veggies (cauliflower, parsnips, winter squash, sweet potatoes, normal potatoes, celeriac, parsnip, parsley root, turnip, etc)
1 big yellow onion
2-4 cloves garlic (to taste)
Chicken or vegetable broth
Salt & pepper
Olive oil
lemon juice
Spices of your choice
Optional add-ins:
  -rind of a good salty white cheese, like romano or sharp provalone
  -bacon
  -pasta
  -chewy grains like barley or quinoa, cooked
  -cooked lentils or beans
  -fresh parsley

1) Turn your oven on to 350. Chop up your veggies (not the garlic & onions) into 1-inch cubes or smaller. Put in a pan, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt, and stick in the oven. Don't worry if the oven's not preheated yet. (This step is totally optional, but it makes the whole thing cook faster. Feel free to skip it and just chop the veggies while the onion is cooking. You'll have to boil them longer in that case.) (Also, if you're making sweet potato wedges too, get those in the oven first, then just stick this pan in as well, no worries about the temp being higher.)

2) Roughly chop the onions, then start to saute them in olive oil in the bottom of a soup pot big enough to hold all your chopped veggies. (If you're adding bacon, chop it small and fry it up with the onions if you want it pureed into the soup later, otherwise do it first and set it aside, with the grease to cook the onions in.) When they start to get transparent, add the garlic, chopped. Saute a minute or two more.

3) Pull the vegetables out of the oven and dump them in the pot. Pour in enough broth to cover. If you do want to herb up the whole pot or if you're adding a cheese rind, now's the time to do it. Let it bubble away until the veggies are soft enough that you can stick a fork in 'em.

4) Blend the whole lot until smooth, either using an immersion blender or a countertop one. If you're using a normal blender, make sure to loosen the little clear plastic bit in the middle of the top and keep your hand on the lid so it doesn't explode scalding liquid when you turn it on. Stir in lemon juice, salt and pepper, spices and add-ins to taste. Eat with a slice of good bread.

Spiced Sweet Potatoes
Sweet potatoes, washed and optionally peeled.
Olive oil
Salt
Equal parts oregano, coriander, and fennel seeds, plus paprika or cayenne to taste
Or whatever spice mix you like

1) Preheat the oven to 415. Cut the sweet potatoes in half across their circumference, then into wedges lengthwise, roughly into eighths. Toss in a baking dish with olive oil, salt, and a generous amount of spices. Roast for 20 minutes, flip over, then until they're nice and soft, roughly 20 minutes more depending on size.

Beans & Tomatoes
String beans, washed
Garlic
Broth
A tomato
Salt
Olive oil


1) Trim the ends off the beans and cut them in half. Smash the garlic cloves under the flat side of a knife.

2) On fairly high heat, saute the beans in oil, stirring frequently. The beans will turn bright green in the heat, maybe brown a little. Add the garlic, saute a minute more. Add a half cup of broth and cover. Once most of the broth has boiled off (2 minutes?) add the chopped tomatoes and stir for another minute. Salt to taste and serve.

Friday, February 8, 2013

Catching Up: Meat and Potatoes, but Classy

I just got back from a four-month stint living and doing dissertation field research in West Papua, Indonesia. (See Climbing Volcanoes to read about that.) The food in Indonesia is wonderful, full of spices, chiles, coconut milk, tofu, tempe, and deep-fried bananas. What it is not is varied, and while I absolutely love my landlady's young jackfruit curry, by the time December came around I was seriously jonesing for some bread, prosciutto, red wine, and real cheese. White rice is good, white rice three meals a day gets old. So when I got home one of the foremost things on my mind was to catch up with all the old delicious things that I'd missed, and one of those things was lamb chops. Rare, seared, salty, tender lamb chops like the ones I got in New Zealand, with a side of green beans and oniony potatoes. For one thing, lamb costs rather a bit more here than it did in Auckland and isn't quite so fresh either, but I got a decent package of loin chops from the co-op here. The potatoes are adapted from a recipe I got from Saveur a while back, but with olive oil instead of duck fat because even I have limits I couldn't find duck fat on short notice. (The original, amazing but slightly pickier recipe is here.) The beans are an old family favorite. Altogether my kitchen smelled amazing and it made me happy to be back in the US, despite the January weather. The hot showers helped too, but there's definitely something to be said for the lamb.

Lamb chops wit the works.


Lamb Chops
This isn't even a recipe; I don't know why I'm even writing it down except that it would be odd to post about a lamb dinner and not put in instructions for the lamb. So here goes.

Set lamb loin chops on a plate; generously salt & pepper both sides. Let sit for a few minutes.
Put a little olive oil in a cast iron skillet and let it get really hot. Add the lamb, and let each side cook til it's brown and crusty. Cover for a slightly less rare chop. In any case it'll be pink in the middle and delicious. Hold the edges onto the pan and let them brown too. Let rest for 10 minutes, then enjoy.

Potato-Onion Galette
Waxy potatoes
Half as many onions, sweet ones work well.
Caraway seeds or chopped sage leaves
Olive oil, butter, duck fat, or some combination of the above.
Salt & pepper
Bacon or prosciutto (optional)

Preheat oven to 425. Slice the potatoes thin (it's easiest with a mandoline); put in a large bowl. Slice the onions equally thin; add to the same bowl. Add an handful of chopped sage leaves or caraway seeds, plus S&P to taste. Finely chopped bits of crispy bacon or prosciutto are good too, added either now or as a garnish at the end. Toss everything until well-mixed. Add a healthy amount of olive oil, melted butter, or whatever fat you're using and toss to coat. Put the mixture in a pyrex baking dish and bake 45 minutes to an hour, until potatoes are tender and everything's nice and brown.

Lemon-Garlic String Beans
String beans, washed
Garlic
Lemon juice
S&P
Oil
1/4 cup broth

Slice the end off of the string beans and cut them into reasonable lengths. Heat some olive oil in a pan on medium -high heat. Add the beans, and let them cook, stirring, til they turn bright green. Turn the heat down and add the garlic, stirring so it doesn't burn. Cook a minute or two, then add a large-ish splash of broth. Cover and cook for a few more minutes, not so long that the beans lose all their crunch. Take the top off so the broth evaporates. Add a few squeezes of lemon juice and s&p to taste.